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Among the dead branches that you prune, there may be some whose bases have rotted back into the parent member. For now, leave these lesions alone except for painting them over. They may require some knife or chisel work, which will be described in a later chapter. Among the breakage there may be some branches damaged only out toward their ends, leaving sound parts that you may want to save. Cut these back for now to the nearest good fork or shoot. Such truncated members can be reconsidered when you prune the tree's other live parts. With breakage and deadwood out of the way, next stand off and squint at your tree through half-closed eyes. Perceive its "habit"—how its members grow to give it characteristic outer shape and inner pattern. Identify the main members and keep them in mind to preserve and accentuate. Against their basic symmetry, superfluous members will stick out like extra thumbs. Don't hesitate to lop them. Some trees are more prone than others to proliferate interfering branches, including linden, dogwood, hawthorn, hackberry, mulberry, boxelder, and many of the maples. All these trees will stand a lot of "tailoring." Where a young tree has a main fork low in its stem, steel yourself to amputate one leader or the other so that the survivor can take command. A close look at how the competing leaders grow will tell you which to condemn. Direct your attention next to sucker growths. These are straight, unbranching shoots that you don't want to become important members. They only consume energy and clutter form. They may come up from the tree's roots or out of its trunk or off main members. Prune suckers ruthlessly, using your shears and pole tools. There will be more suckers next year in case you need any to fill out a pattern. |
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