Palms are pruned simply by removing dead fronds; bananas, after fruiting, by cutting the stalks to the ground, whence sprouts will produce the next crop.

Evergreens (the narrow leaf varieties) up to fifteen feet seldom require pruning except for removal of breakage and deadwood, which is done at the trunk. Cuts on evergreens mostly heal themselves with the trees' own resins, but it does no harm to paint them anyway. Top and side trimming, to keep young evergreens in hand, is done by lopping terminals selectively, not shearing to a line. Such trimming will help spindly, shade-grown evergreens fill out, especially if it is done in spring when the foliage is soft. Firs, pines, and spruces are best pruned in late spring after they have made most of their annual growth. Arborvitae, cedars, juniper, hemlocks, cypresses, and yews (including Taxus), which all grow continuously, can be pruned any time except winter, when cut ends may dry out or freeze north of Maryland and through the Plains States. When evergreens suffer winterkill, wait until new growth can be distinguished before pruning out the damage. If damage is severe, wait until the new growth provides shade against sunscald. Whitewash on the exposed stems, too, will turn off the heat.

Mid-December is the happiest time for pruning hollies: they take it kindly then, and you can use the cuttings for Christmas greens. Prune to branch junctions or the foliage will densify and suppress next year's gay red berries.